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#
1,3-Bis-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)Propane Hcl
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
1-Naphthol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol Hcl
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
2,5,6-Triamino-4-Pyrimidinol Sulfate
Colorance: hair dyes
2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisole Sulfate
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
2-Amino-6-Chloro-4-Nitrophenol
Colorance: hair dyes
2-Methyl-5-Hydroxyethylaminophenol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
2-Methylresorcinol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
3,4-Dimethyl-3-Hydroxyflavanone
hair growth agent
4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
4-Amino-3-Nitrophenol
Topchic: hair dyes
4-Amino-M-Cresol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
4-Chlororesorcinol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
4-Hydroxypropylamino-3-Nitrophenol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
A
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Perm: botanicals
Acetamide Mea
humeceutant and conditioning agent
Acetaminophen
Topchic: additives
Perm: additives
Perm: additives
Acetic Acid
Topchic: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Acetyl Cysteine
Perm: Amino-acids
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol
emulsion stabilizer and conditioning agent
Acid
1.1.1. = Aqueous substances with a pH value between 0 ñ 7.
Acid Black 51
pigment
Acid Red 52 / C.I. 45100
Colorance: cosmetic colorants
Topchic: cosmetic colorants
Elumen: cosmetic colorants
Topchic: cosmetic colorants
Elumen: cosmetic colorants
Acid Yellow 3 / C.I. 47005
Perm: cosmetic colorants
Acrylates Copolymer
thickener
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
thickener
Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer
polymeric hair setting agent
Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer
rheology modifier
Aerosols
Pressurized, active ingredient solution that uses a propellant to dispense (e.g. propane, butane or a mixture of these two). An aerosol is under constant pressure until the can is empty. Caution: These gases are flammable.
Alanine
Caution: These gases are flammable.
Perm: antistatic agents
Alcohol Denat.
Colorance: solvents
Topchic: solvents
Perm: solvents
Elumen: solvents
Topchic: solvents
Perm: solvents
Elumen: solvents
Allantoin
Anti-Inflammatory agent
Allergy Alert Test
A test required by FDA regulation, made by applying a small amount of hair color mixture to the skin of the arm or behind the ear to determine possible allergies (hypersensitivity). The test usually needs to be done 48 hours prior to the actual service. It is also called pre-disposition or skin test.
Alkaline
Aqueous substances with a pH value between 7 ñ 14.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
moisturizer, to maintain and keep the moisture balance
Perm: biological additives / emollients
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Amino Acids
Organic compounds composed of amine (-NH) and carboxylic (-COOH) acid. The base component of hair protein.
Aminomethyl Propanol
used as neutralizing agent for setting polymers
Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone
shine and conditioning agent
Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Perm: conditioning agents
Ammonium Bicarbonate
Topchic: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Ammonium Carbamate
Perm: buffering agents
Ammonium Chloride
Colorance: buffering agents / viscosity controlling agents
Topchic: buffering agents / viscosity controlling agents
Topchic: buffering agents / viscosity controlling agents
Ammonium Hydroxide
buffering agents / pH-regulator
Topchic: buffering agents / denaturants
Perm: buffering agents / denaturants
Perm: buffering agents / denaturants
Ammonium Thioglycolate
Perm: depilating agents / reducing agents
Amodimethicone
silicone based softening agent
Perm: Hair Conditioning Agent
Keratin Treatment: Hair Conditioning Agent
Keratin Treatment: Hair Conditioning Agent
Amphoteric
Having the characteristics of an acid and a base and capable of reacting chemically either as an acid or a base
Amyl Cinnamal
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Amylcinnamyl Alcohol
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Anagen
Phase of hair cycles.
Anise Alcohol
fragrance ingredient
Apigenin
stimulates blood circulation (scalp)
Aqueous Solution
Water based solutions.
Ascorbic Acid
Colorance: antioxidants / buffering agents
Topchic: antioxidants / buffering agents
Perm: antioxidants / buffering agents
Topchic: antioxidants / buffering agents
Perm: antioxidants / buffering agents
Ash
A tone or shade dominated by greens, blues, violets or greys. May be used to counteract unwanted warm tones. (Goldwellís Ash is a blue-base - Pearl is blue-violet).
Aspartic Acid
Perm: antistatic agents
Avena Sativa (Oat) Meal Extract / Avena Sativa
natural ingredient with scalp soothing properties
B
Basic Orange 31
Topchic: hair dyes
Basic Red 51
Topchic: hair dyes
Basic Violet 2 / C.I. 42520
Colorance: cosmetic colorants
Basic Yellow 87
Topchic: hair dyes
Beeswax/ Cera Alba/Cire D'Abeille
naturally derived beeswax for shine and hold
Behentrimonium Chloride
cationic conditioner
Perm: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Keratin Treatment: cationic conditioner
Elumen: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Keratin Treatment: cationic conditioner
Elumen: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
cationic conditioning ingredient
Benzoic Acid
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Benzophenone-3
oil soluble UV filter
Benzophenone-4
UV filter
Benzyl Alcohol
solvent
Colorance: preservatives / solvents
Topchic: preservatives / solvents
Perm: preservatives / solvents
Elumen: preservatives / Conditioning agent
Topchic: preservatives / solvents
Perm: preservatives / solvents
Elumen: preservatives / Conditioning agent
Benzyl Benzoate
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Benzyl Cinnamate
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Benzyl Salicylate
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Betaine
Perm: antistatic agents / viscosity controlling agents
Bht
anti-oxidant
Biotin
vitamine, positive influences on hair growth
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
modified vitamine, increases hair anchoring in the bulb
Bisabolol
Perm: additives
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
emollient adds texture and smoothness
Bis-Methoxypropylamido Isodocosane
Colorance: emollients / conditioning agent
Topchic: emollients / conditioning agent
Perm: emollients / conditioning agent
Topchic: emollients / conditioning agent
Perm: emollients / conditioning agent
Blue 1 / C.I. 42090
dye for formulation coloring
Perm: cosmetic colorants
Elumen: hair dyes
Elumen: hair dyes
Buffer
pH stabilizer
Butane
propellant
Butyl Stearate
emollient
Butylated Pvp
polymeric hair setting agent
Butylene Glycol
solvent
Perm: humectants / solvents
Elumen: humectants / solvents
Elumen: humectants / solvents
Butylparaben
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
fragrance igredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
C
C11-15 Pareth-7
Perm: emulsifying agents
C11-15 Pareth-9
Elumen: surfactants
C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5
Perm: surfactants / emulsifying agents
C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7
Perm: surfactants / emulsifying agents
C14-28 Alkyl Acid
hair regenerating ingredient
C14-28 Isoalky Acid
hair regenerating ingredient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Perm: emollients / solvents
Caprylyl Methicone
supports spreading of active ingredients
Carbomer
thickener tor form clear gels
Elumen: emulsion stabilisers / viscosity controlling agents
Catagen
Phase of the hair cycles.
Catalyst
A substance or force having the power to alter the speed of a chemical reaction.
Cations
Property of a molecule that carries a positive charge.
Ceteareth-20
emulsifying agents
Ceteareth-30
Colorance: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Ceteartrimonium Chloride
conditioning ingredient
Elumen: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Cetearyl Alcohol
emulsion stabiliser and consisitency regulator
Colorance: emollients / emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers /
Topchic: emollients / emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers /
Perm: emollients / emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers /
Topchic: emollients / emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers /
Perm: emollients / emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers /
Ceteth-20 Phosphate
emulsifier
Cetrimonium Chloride
cationic conditioner
Colorance: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Perm: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Keratin Treatment: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Perm: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Keratin Treatment: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Cetrimonium Methosulfate
Keratin Treatment: surfactant
Cetyl Acetate
emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
fatty alcohol, emollient, emulsion stabilizer
Keratin Treatment: fatty alcohol, emollient, emulsion stabilizer
Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 Dimethicone
silicone emulsifier
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)Flower Extract
natural ingredient with soothing and calming properties
Chitosan
cationic film former
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex/C.I. 75810
Perm: cosmetic colorants
Cinnamal
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Cinnamomum Zeylancium Bark Extract
natural ingredient with astringent properties
Cinnamyl Alcohol
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Citral
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Citric Acid
pH-regulator
Colorance: buffering agents / chelating agents
Perm: buffering agents / chelating agents
Keratin Treatment: buffering agents / chelating agents
Perm: buffering agents / chelating agents
Keratin Treatment: buffering agents / chelating agents
Citronellol
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract
Perm: botanicals
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange)Flower Extract
natural ingredient
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Perm: skin conditioning agents
Cocamide Dea
Perm: emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controllin
Cocamide Mea
Colorance: emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controllin
Topchic: emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controllin
Topchic: emulsifying agents / emulsion stabilisers / surfactants / viscosity controllin
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
surfactant
Cocamine Oxide
Perm: antistatic agents / surfactants
Coco-Betaine
Perm: surfactants
Coco-Glucoside
surfactant with a synergistic effect
Color Wheel
3.5. The arrangement of primary, secondary and tertiary colors in the order of their relationships to each other, illustrating the Law of Color.
Complementary colors
Colors opposite each other on the Color Wheel that counteract or neutralize each other.
Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax
naturally derived from the leaves of the Cpernicia tree
Corn Starch Modified
film former and hair fixative
Corrective Shampoo
A term stylists may refer to as ìsoap cap,î ìbleach wash,î ìcorrective shampoo.î Used to remove color pigments and to ìclean the canvas.î
Cortex
The protein core of the hair fiber where many chemical changes occur.
Coumarin
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Counteracting color
Complementary color
Coupler
Create dyes in combination with pre-cursors and the support of oxygen.
Croscarmellose
stabilizer
Cuticle
The translucent protein outer layer of the hair fiber surrounding the cortex.
Cyclopentasiloxane
lightweight silicone for shine
Cysteine Hcl
Perm: reducing agents
D
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Keratin Treatment: thickening agent / polymer
Decolorize
A chemical process involving the removal of artificial or natural color pigment by a bleaching shampoo, decolorizer (bleach) or other removal product.
Deposit
Describes the color product in terms of its ability to add color to hair. Color added equals deposit.
Developer
The oxidizing agent used to lift and facilitate the formation of color pigments during the coloring process (usually hydrogen peroxide).
Diammonium-Dithiodiglycolate
Perm: depilating agents / reducing agents
Diazolidinyl Urea
perservative
Perm: preservatives
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Dimonium Chloride
cationic conditioner
Dicetyl Phosphate
emulsifier
Diisopropyl Adipate
component of nano-capsules
Dimethicone
silicone providing a smooth feeling and shine
Colorance: antifoaming agents / emollients
Perm: antifoaming agents / emollients
Perm: antifoaming agents / emollients
Dimethiconol
silicone providing a smooth feeling and shine
Dimethyl Ether
propellant
Dimethylhydroxy Dihydroflavone
Prevents hereditary hairloss, slows down aging process , for thicker, denser hair, supports the anchoring of hair in the scalp
Dipropylene Glycol
solvent
Keratin Treatment: solvent
Direct dyes
A color that deposits directly without the need for oxidation
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Perm: surfactants
Disodium Distyrylbiphenyl Disulfate
optical brightener
Disodium Edta
chelating agent
Disodium Peg-5 Laurylcitrate Sulfosuccinate
extra mild surfactant used in sensitive shampoo
Disodium Phosphate
Disperse Violet 1
Colorance: hair dyes
Dispersion
Disulfide Bonds
Bonds inside the hair
Dmdm Hydantoin
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Elumen: preservatives
Elumen: preservatives
Double Process
A technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is decolorized or pre-lightened with a decolorizer (decolorizer AKA bleach or lightener) before the depositing color is applied.
E
Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail)Extract
natural ingredient
Ethanolamine
Colorance: buffering agents
Topchic: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Elumen: buffering agents
Topchic: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Elumen: buffering agents
Ethanolamine Thioglycolate
Perm: depilating agents / reducing agents
Ethoxydiglycol
Perm: humectants / solvents / hair strenghteners
Ethyhexyl Palmitate
used as an emollient
Ethyl Ester Of Hydrolyzed Silk
naturally derived silk
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
uv filter
Ethylhexylglycerin
perservative
Keratin Treatment: perservative
Ethylparaben
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Etidronic Acid
Topchic: chelating agents
Perm: chelating agents
Perm: chelating agents
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
natural ingredient
Eugenol
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Ext. Violet 2/C.I.60730
a dye used to color formulations
Elumen: cosmetic colorants
F
Farnesol
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: additives
Perm: additives
Perm: additives
Filler
Pre-pigmentation
Folicle
Hair root
Fragrance / Parfum
fragrance
Colorance: Fragrance
Topchic: Fragrance
Perm: Fragrance
Keratin Treatment: fragrance
Elumen: Fragrance
Topchic: Fragrance
Perm: Fragrance
Keratin Treatment: fragrance
Elumen: Fragrance
Fructose
humectant
Perm: humectants
G
Gold
Color direction in the warm area, pseudonym for yellow
Geraniol
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Glucose
sugar with humectant properties
Glutamic Acid
Perm: antistatic agents / humectants
Glycerin
moisturizer
Topchic: denaturants / humectants / solvents
Perm: denaturants / humectants / solvents
Perm: denaturants / humectants / solvents
Glyceryl Laurate
refattening agent
Glyceryl Oleate
rebalances the scalp
Glyceryl Stearate
emulsion stabiliser and consisitency regulator
Perm: emollients / emulsifying agents
Glyceryl Thioglycolate
Perm: depilating agents / reducing agents
Glycine
conditioning agent
Perm: antistatic agents / buffering agents
Glycine Soja Oil
naturally derived
Glycolic Acid
component of a shine giving complex
Glyoxylic Acid
neutralizes residues of chemical services (H2O2)
Perm: buffering agents
Keratin Treatment: active ingredient / cross linker
Keratin Treatment: active ingredient / cross linker
Green 3/Ci42053
a dye used to color formulations
Perm: cosmetic colorants
Green 5/Ci61570
a dye used to color formulations
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
conditioning substance
H
Hair Shaft
Visible part of each hair strand. Made up of an outer layer (cuticle), an inner core (medulla) and an in-between layer (cortex). The cortex layer is where color changes are made.
Hc Blue No17
cationic dye with anti yellow effect
Topchic: hair dyes
Hc Red No. 3
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Hc Yellow No. 2
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Hexyl Cinnamal
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Hexylene Glycol
Perm: solvents
Humulus Lupulus Extract
natural ingredient
Hydrofluorocarbon 152A
propellant
Hydrogene Peroxide
An oxidizing chemical made up of 2 atoms of hydrogen and 2 atoms of oxygen (H202). Responsible for lift as well as development of color pigments. Also referred to as Topchic Lotion or Colorance Lotion.
Topchic: oxidising agents
Perm: oxidising agents
Perm: oxidising agents
Hydrogenated Polydecene
hair conditioning agent thickener
Hydrolyzed Silk
Keratin Treatment: protein
Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein
protein for strengthening
Perm: antistatic agents
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
protein for strengthening
Colorance: botanicals
Perm: botanicals
Perm: botanicals
Hydrolyzed Yeast
rich in proteins for reconstructing and conditioning
Hydroxycitronellal
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Hydroxyethylcellulose
naturally derived from cellulose
Colorance: binders / emulsion stabilisers / film formers / viscosity controlling agents
Perm: binders / emulsion stabilisers / film formers / viscosity controlling agents
Perm: binders / emulsion stabilisers / film formers / viscosity controlling agents
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Elumen: binders / emulsion stabilisers / film formers / viscosity controlling agents
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
cationic conditioning agent
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
bulking agent
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
naturally derived from maize to support curl retention
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Perm: antistatic agents
I
Inositol
humectant
Perm: antistatic agents / humectants
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Perm: preservatives
Ions
Electrically charged atoms or molecules
Ionic
See "Ions"
Isobutane
propellant
Isobutylparaben
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Isoceteth-20
an emulsifying agent
Perm: emulsifying agents
Isododecane
solvent
Isoeugenol
fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Isopentane
propellant
Isopropyl Alcohol
solvent
Colorance: antifoaming agents / solvents
Perm: antifoaming agents / solvents
Elumen: antifoaming agents / solvents
Perm: antifoaming agents / solvents
Elumen: antifoaming agents / solvents
Isopropyl Myristate
emollient
Perm: binders / emollients / solvents
Keratin Treatment: binders / emollients / solvents
Keratin Treatment: binders / emollients / solvents
Isopropyl Palmitate
emollient
Perm: antistatic agents / binders / emollients / solvents
Isoquercetin
naturally derived flavonoid
K
Keratin
Insoluble protein of which hair is exclusively composed. Consists of 19 amino acids.
L
Lactic Acid
component of a shine giving complex and moisturizer
Perm: buffering agents / humectants
Elumen: buffering agents / humectants
Elumen: buffering agents / humectants
Lactitol
sugar derivative with soothing properties
Lactose
Perm: humectants
Lanolin Alcohol
fatty alcohol, emollient, emulsion stabilizer
Lanolin Oil
naturally derived
Lanolin Wax/ Lanolin Cera
conditioning and a viscosity-in-creasing agent
Lanugo hair
Hair type
Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Perm: antistatic agents
Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin
Keratin Treatment: protein
Laureth-2
emulsifying agent
Colorance: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Laureth-23
foaming agent in mousses
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Laureth-4
emulsifying agent
Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid
surfactant
Laureth-9
Perm: surfactants / emulsifying agents
Lauryl Pyrrolidone
conditioning agent
Lavandula Angustifolia
natural igredient which is calming to scalp
Lecithin
natural ingredient providing deep care
Limonene
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Linalool
fragrance ingredient
Colorance: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Topchic: Fragrance ingredient
Perm: Fragrance ingredient
Keratin Treatment: fragrance ingredient
Elumen: Fragrance ingredient
Lipids
Collective term for the various groups of fatty acids
M
Magnesium Sulfate
rich source of magnesium ions
Perm: viscosity controlling agents
Malic Acid
component of a shine giving complex
M-Aminophenol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Medula
Marc channel inside the hair.
Melanocytes
Producer of hair pigments (melanine)
Melissa Officinalis (Balm) Extract
natural ingredient with scalp balancing properties
Mentha Aquatica Extract
natural ingredient with refreshing and cooling properties
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract
natural ingredient which is an antioxidant
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil / Mentha Piperita
natural ingredient which is an antioxidant
Menthol
cooling agent stimulating blood circulation
Methylal
solvent
Methylcellulose
Perm: binders / emulsion stabilisers / viscosity controlling agents
Methylisothiazolinone
perservative
Methylparaben
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Microcrystalline Wax/Cera Micrcristallina
stabilizes wax formulas
Mineral Oil / Paraffinum Liquidum / Huile MinÈrale
hair conditioning agent and shine enhancers
Topchic: antistatic agents / emollients / solvents
Perm: antistatic agents / emollients / solvents
Perm: antistatic agents / emollients / solvents
Myristic Acid
conditioning agent
Myristyl Alcohol
fatty alcohol for conditioning
N
Neutral
pH 7
Niacinamide
humectant
Perm: additives
Non-Ionic
See "Ions"
O
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract
natural ingredient with antioxidant properties
Octinoxate / Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV filter
Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
hair setting agent
Octyldodecanol
Colorance: emollients / solvents
Oleanolic Acid
hair growth ingredient
Oleic Acid
Colorance: emollients / emulsifying agents
Topchic: emollients / emulsifying agents
Perm: emollients / emulsifying agents
Topchic: emollients / emulsifying agents
Perm: emollients / emulsifying agents
Oleth-20
emollient
Perm: surfactants
Oleth-5
Colorance: emulsifying agents
Topchic: emulsifying agents
Topchic: emulsifying agents
Oleyl Acetate
emollient
Oleyl Alcohol
Colorance: emollients / emulsifying agents / opacifiers / viscosity controlling agents
Orange 4 / C.I. 15510
dye for formulation coloring
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch
natural ingredient to bind excessive oil and provide grip
Oxidative dyes
A color that needs oxidation to develop
Oxidization
Chemical process with gain of oxygen
Oxyquinoline Sulfate
Perm: chelating agents
Ozokerite
emulsion stabilizer and viscosity increasing agent
P
Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride
cationic conditioning agent
Palmitic Acid
fatty acid for cuticle conditioning and smoothness
P-Aminophenol
Topchic: hair dyes
Panthenol
moisturizer
Perm: antistatic agents / moisturizing agents
Paraffin
thickener for wax products
Patch Test
Allergy Alert Test
Pca
moisturizer
Peg/Ppg-14/4 Dimethicone
silicone emulsifier
Peg/Ppg-150/30 Copolymer
Perm: emulsifying agents
Peg-100 Stearate
emulsifier
Peg-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone
Perm: humectants
Peg-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate
refattening agent
Peg-18/18 Dimethicone
conditioning agent with emulsifying properties
Peg-3 Distearate
pearling agent
Peg-32
binder, humectant and solvent
Peg-35 Castor Oil
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Peg-40 Castor Oil
emulsifying agent which conditions hair
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
solubilizer
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Elumen: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Elumen: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Peg-5 Cocamide
Colorance: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Peg-60 Almod Glycerides
emulsifier and conditioner derived from almond oil
Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
solubilizer
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Peg-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Peg-8
humectant
Elumen: humectants / solvents
Peg-9 Dimethicone
Perm: antistatic agents / emollients
Elumen: antistatic agents / emollients
Elumen: antistatic agents / emollients
Peg-90 Glyceryl Isostearate
texturizing ingredient
Pentante
propellant
Period after opening (PAO)
Lifespan of product.
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Unsaponifiables / Persea Gratissima
hair similar lipid
Petrolatum
hair conditioning agent and shine enhancer
Perm: antistatic agents / emollients
Phenoxyethanol
preservative
Colorance: preservatives / solvents
Perm: preservatives / solvents
Keratin Treatment: preservatives / solvents
Perm: preservatives / solvents
Keratin Treatment: preservatives / solvents
Phenyl Trimethicone
silicone providing extra shine
Phenylpropanol
perservative
Pheomelanin
Pigment inside the hair
Phospholipids
hair similar lipid
Phosphoric Acid
Topchic: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Elumen: buffering agents
Perm: buffering agents
Elumen: buffering agents
Phytantriol
boosts the moisturizing properties of Panthenol
pH+ Value
Piper Nigrum (Black Pepper) Seed Extract
natural ingredient
Piroctone Olamine
anti-dandruff agent
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
conditioning and smoothing agent
Polymers
5. ff. Ingredient in styling products
Polyquaternium-10
cationic conditioner
Polyquaternium-11
cationic conditioner with film forming properties
Polyquaternium-15
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polyquaternium-16
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polyquaternium-2
Perm: antistatic agents / emollients / film formers
Polyquaternium-35
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polyquaternium-37
thickening agent
Polyquaternium-39
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polyquaternium-4
provides wet combability
Polyquaternium-46
cationic conditioner with film forming properties
Polyquaternium-6
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polyquaternium-68
polymer that provides durable styles
Polyquaternium-7
cationic conditioner
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polysilicone-9
thermo polymer for heat styles
Colorance: antistatic agents / film formers
Topchic: antistatic agents / film formers
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Topchic: antistatic agents / film formers
Perm: antistatic agents / film formers
Polysorbate 60
stabilizer in the spheres
Polysorbate 65
Perm: surfactants / emulsifying agents
Polysorbate 80
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Potassium Iodide
Colorance: catalyst
Potassium Sorbate
perservative
Perm: preservatives
Keratin Treatment: perservative
Keratin Treatment: perservative
Ppg-12 Dimethicone
conditioning ingredient
Ppg-26-Buteth-26
stabilizes hair growth agent
Perm: antistatic agents / emulsifying agents
Elumen: antistatic agents / emulsifying agents
Elumen: antistatic agents / emulsifying agents
Ppg-5-Buteth-5
Perm: Hair Conditioning Agent
Ppg-9
penetration enhancer
Perm: emollients / viscosity controlling agents
Precursor
Create dyes in combination with couplers and the support of oxygen.
Pre-pigmentation
Service to add additional dyes to the hair prior to a hair color application
Procapil
Propane
propellant
Propylene Carbonate
Elumen: solvents
Propylene Glycol
solvent
Colorance: humectants / solvents
Topchic: humectants / solvents
Perm: humectants / solvents
Keratin Treatment: humectants / solvents
Elumen: humectants / solvents
Topchic: humectants / solvents
Perm: humectants / solvents
Keratin Treatment: humectants / solvents
Elumen: humectants / solvents
Propylene Glycol Stearate Se
Colorance: emulsifying agents
Topchic: emulsifying agents
Topchic: emulsifying agents
Propylparaben
preservative
Perm: preservatives
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil
natural conditioning ingredient for shine and smoothness
Perm: botanicals
Punica Granatum Extract
a natural ingredient with astringent properties
Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer
film former and thickener
Pvp
a polymer that makes hair more manageable
Pyruvic Acid
component of a shine giving complex
Q
Quaternium-80
cationic conditioning agent
Quaternium-91
Keratin Treatment: cationic conditioning agent
Quats ? 5.3.1. Ingredient in care products
R
Red 33 / C.I. 17200
dye for formulation coloring
Elumen: cosmetic colorants
Red 4 / C.I. 14700
dye for formulation coloring
Red 40/ C.I. 16035
a dye used to color formulations
Reduction
Chemical process with loss of oxygen
Reflection
The ability of an object to reflect light waves and thereby determine the color we see.
Resorcinol
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Retinyl Palmitate
Colorance: additives
Reversibility
Property of the hair to go back to original length when stretched
Rheum Palmatum (Rhubarb) Root Extract
natural ingredient which assists in keeping blonde hair bright
Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract
natural ingredient that protects against thermal stress
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Eytract
natural ingredient with soothing and calming properties
S
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract
Perm: botanicals
Salicylic Acid
Topchic: preservatives
Perm: preservatives
Perm: preservatives
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract
natural ingredient
Sea Salt/ Maris Sal
naturally derived ingredient for volume and texture
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
natural ingredient emollient
Silica
Colorance: abrasives / absorbents / opacifiers / viscosity controlling agents
Silica Dimethicone Silylate
Perm: Anticaking Agents / Synthetic Polymers
Silicia
powder for non-greasy touch
Silicone Quaternium-18
silicone for improved color retention
Sodium Acetate
stabilizing salt
Topchic: buffering agents
Sodium Benzoate
preservative
Colorance: preservatives
Perm: preservatives
Keratin Treatment: preservative
Perm: preservatives
Keratin Treatment: preservative
Sodium Bicarbonate
Elumen: buffering agents
Sodium Bromate
Perm: oxidising agents
Sodium Carbonate
Elumen: buffering agents
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
Colorance: surfactants
Topchic: surfactants
Perm: surfactants
Topchic: surfactants
Perm: surfactants
Sodium Chloride
thickener
Perm: viscosity controlling agents
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
surfactant with a synergistic effect
Perm: surfactants
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
mild surfactant providing creamy foam
Sodium Hydroxide
pH-regulator
Colorance: buffering agents / denaturants
Perm: buffering agents / denaturants
Keratin Treatment: buffering agents / denaturants
Elumen: buffering agents / denaturants
Perm: buffering agents / denaturants
Keratin Treatment: buffering agents / denaturants
Elumen: buffering agents / denaturants
Sodium Isethionate
Elumen: antistatic agents / surfactants
Sodium Lactate
humectant
Perm: buffering agents / humectants
Sodium Laneth-40 Maleate/ Styrene Sulfonate Copolymer
naturally derived heat protection ingredient
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
surfactant
Perm: surfactants
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
surfactant
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Colorance: denaturants / emulsifying agents / surfactants
Topchic: denaturants / emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: denaturants / emulsifying agents / surfactants
Topchic: denaturants / emulsifying agents / surfactants
Perm: denaturants / emulsifying agents / surfactants
Sodium Naphthalenesulfonate
stabilizer
Sodium Pca
humectant
Perm: antistatic agents / humectants
Sodium Picramate
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
thickening agent
Sodium Stearate
Topchic: emulsifying agents / surfactants / viscosity controlling agents
Sodium Sulfite
Colorance: preservatives
Topchic: preservatives
Topchic: preservatives
Sorbic Acid
perservative
Perm: preservatives
Elumen: preservatives
Elumen: preservatives
Sorbitan Oleate
emulsifying agent
Sorbitol
volume giving moisturizer
Soy Isoflavones
antioxidant
Spectrum (Color Spectrum)
The series of colored bands diffracted and arranged in the order of their wavelengths by the passage of white light through a prism. Shading continuously from red (produced by the longest wave visible) to violet (produced by the shortest): red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.
Sphingolipids
hair similar lipid
Squalane
Colorance: emollients
Topchic: emollients
Perm: emollients
Topchic: emollients
Perm: emollients
Stearamide Mea
Colorance: antistatic agents / viscosity controlling agents
Topchic: antistatic agents / viscosity controlling agents
Topchic: antistatic agents / viscosity controlling agents
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
quaternary agent for care
Stearamine
component of nano-capsules
Steareth-2
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants / consistency giving agents
Steareth-21
surfactant and emulsifying agent
Stearic Acid
fatty acid for cuticle conditioning and smoothness
Stearoxypropyl Dimethylamine
hair conditioning ingredient
Steartrimonium Chloride
cationic conditioning agent
Colorance: Preservative / Conditioning agent
Stearyl Acetate
emollient
Stearyl Alcohol
hair conditioning ingredient
Styrene/Vp Copolymer
opacifier
Perm: film formers / opacifiers
Elumen: film formers / opacifiers
Elumen: film formers / opacifiers
Sulfuric Acid
Perm: buffering agents
Sulphates
Sufactants
Sulphur bonds
Located in the Cortex. These bonds are opened and rebounded in the perm and straightening process.
Surfactants
Surface active ingredients.
Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract
natural ingredient with calming properties
T
Tartaric Acid
component of a shine giving complex
Telogen
Phase of hair cycle
Terminal hair
Hair type
Tertiary Colors
Colors made by combining a primary color with its neighboring secondary color in equal or unequal proportions ‡ red-orange, yellow-green, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet.
Tetrasodium Edta
a chelating agent helps remove product build up
Colorance: chelating agents
Topchic: chelating agents
Perm: chelating agents
Topchic: chelating agents
Perm: chelating agents
t-flavanone
Dimethylhydroxy Dihydroflavone
Thioglycolic Acid
Perm: depilating agents / reducing agents
Thiolactic Acid
Perm: antioxidants / depilating agents / reducing agents
Tocopheryl Acetate
vitamine E acetate - antioxidant
Colorance: vitamine
Topchic: vitamine
Perm: vitamine
Topchic: vitamine
Perm: vitamine
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate
Colorance: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Topchic: hair dyes
Toner
A haircolor applied after pre-lightening, usually blonde or a fashion toner. The second step in a double process.
Transluscent
Allows light pass through.
Trichorrexis nodosa
Hair anomalie
Trideceth-10
conditioning agent
Trideceth-12
emulsifier
Perm: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Keratin Treatment: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Keratin Treatment: emulsifying agents / surfactants
Trideceth-6
conditioning ingredient
Trideceth-9
conditioning agent
Triethyl Citrate
plasticizer
Trilaureth-4 Phosphate
emulsifier
Trisiloxane
lightweight silicone for shine
Perm: antifoaming agents / conditioning agents
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Elumen: surfactants
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Flour Lipids
natural wheat lipid for moisture
U
Ubiquinone
Colorance: antioxidants
Topchic: antioxidants
Perm: antioxidants
Topchic: antioxidants
Perm: antioxidants
Urea
perservative
Perm: antistatic agents / humectants
Uretica Doica (Nettle) Extract
natural ingredient with scalp balancing properties
V
Va/ Crotonates/ Vinyl
setting polymer
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Perm: biological additives
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
natural ingredient with conditioning properties
Vellus hair
Hair Type
Vinyl Caprolactam/ Vp/ Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
polymeric hair setting agent
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract
natural ingredient which is free radical savenger
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
natural ingredient which is free radical savenger
Vp/Va Copolymer
film former
W
Water / Aqua / Eau
Colorance: solvents
Topchic: solvents
Perm: solvents
Keratin Treatment: solvents
Elumen: solvents
Topchic: solvents
Perm: solvents
Keratin Treatment: solvents
Elumen: solvents
X
Xanthan Gum
Topchic: binders / emulsion stabilisers / viscosity controlling agents
Elumen: binders / emulsion stabilisers / viscosity controlling agents
Elumen: binders / emulsion stabilisers / viscosity controlling agents
Xylitol
sugar derivative with soothing properties
Y
Yellow 5 / C.I. 19140
dye for formulation coloring
Perm: cosmetic colorants
Keratin Treatment: dye for formulation coloring
Keratin Treatment: dye for formulation coloring
Yellow 10/ Acid Yellow 3/ C.I. 47005
Topchic: hair dyes
Elumen: hair dyes
Elumen: hair dyes
Z
Zinc Pyrithione
anti-dandruff agent
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
natural ingredient with antioxidant properties
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